Many women and men notice uneven coloration of facial skin as the years pass. There may be large areas of discoloration or scattered splotches and blotches. It may be more pronounced over the lip or the driver side of the face. If always a passenger, it will be more prominent on the opposite side. Those who always wear sunglasses may notice darkness in the pattern of the lower border of the glasses.
Pigmentation From Melanin or Hormones or Medication
Sun exposure and genetics are major contributors. Chloasma (“the mask of pregnancy”) and melasma can be triggered by ones owns hormones or by birth control pills.
There are many products to treat hyperpigmentation, some effective and others useless. Some work for one skin type and some for another.
Sunscreens
This is the initial line of defense to prevent discoloration. It is later used to prevent further damage to the skin or recurrence after treatment. Ideal sunscreen protects against UVA and UVB rays. Zinc Oxide and Titanium dioxide actually block the rays by sitting on the skin without being absorbed by the body.
Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is a chemical that lightens skin. It is the primary component of the Obagi system which when used properly and consistently resolves pigmentation evening skin tones.
Hydoquinone is banned in some countries having come under scrutiny for possible carcinogenic properties and for causing skin thickening in some populations. The argument for continued use, aside from marketing advantages, is it was used overtime in large amounts to completely lighten the entire body surface in those cases causing problems.
Tri-luma
This is another prescription product employing the synergistic effects of hydroquinone, hydrocortisone, and retin-a. Used regularly, it too will lighten areas of pigmentation.
Skin Peels
There are a vast number of peels with varying strengths. Some are offered only in medical offices and others are superficial cosmetic topicals. The success of the peel is strength and depth dependent as well as appropriate use.
- Peels may be glycolic,
- Retinal,
- Acetic acid
- Lactic, salicylic,
- Alpha hydroxy
- Trichlorocetic (TCA)
- Phenol
- A combination of the above, e.g. Jessner peel
Phenol peels will remove all pigment. Tanning isn’t possible thereafter since melanin is removed; Sunburn remains a problem without diligent use of sun blocks.
Natural skin products for lightening skin
- Although acids may be considered natural since they are developed from fruits and sugars they are described above.
- Cosmetic lines of products may include mixtures of kojic acid
- Licorice extract,
- resorcinol,
- arbutin.
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)
IPL affects the chromosores of the skin. The appropriate wavelength and exposure time targets melanin absorbing the heat and light. There must be significant contrast between skin color and the pigment targeted for the process to be effective. The freckles or sunspots initially darken and then crust and disappear. IPL works best on lighter skin of Fitzpatrick I – III.
Fraxel for Skin Lightening
Fraxel is a non-ablative laser that effects mild wrinkles and skin discoloration or brown spots. The system is one of photo-thermolysis effecting a small group of cells each time. The theory is the non-affected cells will assist the repairing cells so post-treatment down- time is minimal. Fraxel evens skin tone but without use of sun blocks, the pigmentation can return with a vengeance. The laser is a medical device requiring a licensed trained individual skilled in performing the procedure.
Correcting discolored mottled skin is part of the anti-aging esthetic focus so new treatments are embraced and older ones scrutinized. Utilize the brand new unproven ones with caution.
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